Living in Murcia, Spain: Comida

A Taste of the Spanish Kitchen
by: Bette Roberts

On this page:

Market photos

Comida introduction

Review of Madre de Dios
Review of Restaurante Monteagudo
La Buena Tapa
Lizzaron

Ruta de Tapa

Roses Rossell
Los Alamos

(NEWEST STUFF AT BOTTOM (will organize later))

To begin, feast your eyes on just a portion of the selection from our local market

These shopping baskets are very common in the markets.

Introduction

As many people already know, Kevin and I are conscience eaters. Before we moved to Spain, our diet was primarily organic fruits, vegetables, cheese, and breads and the occasional fish or chicken. Very remotely was meat included in our daily menu. Upon embarking on this trip of a lifetime we decided to make an adjustment to our customary eating habits. In order to fully experience Spain, and all the culinary delights it has to offer, this change is absolutely necessary. Currently, the cuisine in Spain is recognized as being some of the best in the world. That alone is reason enough for us to indulge in the omnivorous lifestyle while we are here. However my daily cooking in the kitchen ensures that we are still eating our fair share of fresh local fruits and vegetables from the markets, which will always be an indispensable part of our healthy and sustainable lifestyle. With that being said, in this section of the blog I will be sharing our dining experiences through pictures and descriptions of the various food and drink that we consume all through our travels in Spain.

Bette’s Expert Rating system:

!= Never again

!!=meh..mediocre

!!!=mmm that was pretty darn good

!!!!= Sublime

Madre de Dios (!!):

Madre de Dios is an extremely popular restaurant near the university. A few people recommended that we eat there, one friend stating that it was one of her favorite places, so we decided to give it a try. We went in the evening one weekend around ten and it was completely packed. Inside, electronic music was playing from the speakers. The décor was modern, with abstract light fixtures and art on the wall, and a black and white theme. It seemed like a very trendy place. As soon as we sat down, without delay a server rushed to our table and asked for our drink order. Once seated at any restaurant, you should have a drink order ready because I’ve found you never get more than a minute before your waiter asks, “What would you like to drink?” It wont be much longer until you are asked for your food order either. However, we have gotten used to saying “one more minute, please.” Most servers don’t mind, but ours seemed to be a bit irritated, he even shot Kevin a look when he asked for a glass of water. We watched the servers running around taking orders with their electronic server pad until finally one of them came to take our order. We decided to taste the following:

ensalada de futas secos (a salad with dried fruits)
pan con tomate (toast with fresh tomato sauce)
pimentos relleno (peppers filled with cheese and cod)
boquerones de bacaloa (cod fritters)
bocadillo de salmon ( smoked salmon and queso fresco on a little baguette)

Our food arrived with unbelievable promptness. Since this dining experience, we’ve found in most restaurants there is always a large selection of pre-made tapas sitting under a glass window at the bar, ready to eat. Being one of our first times out to eat, we were not aware of that fact. Out of everything we ordered, the ensalada de frutas secas was our shared favorite. Kevin liked the pan con tomate but I found the sauce to have a canned tomato taste. Call me a food snob, but I prefer fresh tomatoes! The pimento relleno was SUPER cheesy, with barely any fish inside. Neither of us were impressed. The boquerones were a bit greasy but tasty, they reminded me of a fancy fish finger. I love smoked salmon so I enjoyed the bocadillo. Almost every restaurant has them on the menu, and it has become one of my go to tapas choices. Although the menu prices were economical, the food, in my opinion, was run of the mill. However, on a busy night you never know how the food will turn out. Perhaps we will go back again and give it another shot, but is hard to revisit the same place in a city full of hundreds of choices!

In this photo, you can see our entire tapas selection described above.

Restaurante Monteagudo (!!!!):

In the little town of Monteagudo, where Kevin works, sits one of the best restaurants in Murcia. It seems odd for such a prominent establishment to be hidden away from the city, but this restaurant produced some of the best Spanish food I’ve had so far. I guess for 20 Euros/ head (50 Euros/ head for dinner) such quality should be expected. The restaurant had a very pleasant atmosphere. The inside was fancy with a color scheme of natural sandy browns and dark wood. Ample windows allowed the sunlight to illuminate the rooms.

As we mentioned in the blog, this was a group meal with Kevin’s coworkers, so together we shared each course from big plates that were placed on the table. The server was very kind and accommodating, explaining each dish as he presented it, always asking if there was something else we needed. The first course, of which I regrettably don’t have a picture, was a huevo de codorniz on a pringle. Yes, a pringle! The eggs were so tiny, and they fit perfectly on the bite sized snack food. The next course was an ensaladilla rusa con anchoa, a typical tapas found everywhere in Murcia. It is basically a fancy potato salad with tuna, olives, and hard-boiled eggs. It is served on a cruncy breadstick called a crujiente and topped with a salty Anchovy. We’ve had ensaladilla rusa at practically every place we’ve eaten and this one by far was the best. The next course was patatas con ajo verde served in three communal bowls for the table. The potatoes were scrumptious. I would compare them to breakfast potatoes but less oily and with a creamy garlic sauce. The food was coming faster than we could eat, so we took what we wanted from each dish and put it onto our personal plates. Next came the steaming hot dishes of pimientos del piquillo rellenos de bacalao.

The peppers sizzled in the pool of deep red sauce in which they were cooked. I scooped my chosen pepper onto my plate and ladled the succulent sauce on top. The cod inside was cooked perfectly and tasted incredibly fresh. The sauce was smoky and a bit spicy. The flavor resembled chipotle, but a bit sweeter. This was my favorite dish! Following the peppers was Alcachofa rellena de gambas y hongas. The artichoke hearts were coupled with prawns and cooked in a creamy mushroom sauce with big meaty pieces of mushrooms and topped with crunchy potato strings. Yes it was as good as it sounds. Although, at this point I was becoming quite full and I was not able to finish! The last, and most exotic dish, was the ravioli de rabo de torro, yes folks…I ate bull tail. I have to say it was not bad. Not being used to the flavor of beef, I found it a bit strong but it tasted like a good quality shredded beef. The ravioli was hand made and delicious, but once again I only had room for a few bites. When dessert came around, almost two hours had passed and I was not sure how I could possibly eat any more food. Of course I still tasted it. It was a crème Brule with ice cream on a bed of candied oranges, cinnamon, and strawberries. It was good, but nothing to shake a stick at. After large meals, you can ask the waitor for “chupitos,” which are usually complementary shots of herbed liquor (good for digestion). The neon yellow liquid tasted strongly of anise and coated my throat with a delicious sweet flavor. For me, that was an adequate dessert! This meal was certainly a culinary indulgence to remember. From the fare to the company my entire experience at Restauante Monteagudo was unforgettable.

GUIDE:

Huevo de Codorniz ( quail egg)
Ensaladilla Rusa con Anchoa (potato salad with anchovy)
Patatas con ajo verde (potatoes with green garlic sauce)
Pimientos del piquillo rellenos de bacalao (red peppers stuffed with cod)
Alcachofa rellana de gambas y hongas (artichoke filled with prawns and mushrooms)
Ravioli con rabo de torro (Bull tail ravioli)
postre de helado y frutas (ice cream and fruit dessert)
liquer con hierbas (herbed liquor)

Patatas verde y ensaladilla rusa

Kevin, about to feast on the best Ensaladilla in Murcia

Pimientos rellenos, my favorite dish

Alcachofas

Ravioli

Postre

Their Lunch Menu for individual plates

Liquor de hierbas Pilar being silly with the wine bottle

Kevin, being Kevin

Me, in front of the restaurant

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La Buena Tapa: (!! ½)

La Buena Tapa is a small bar located in the city center, right off the “Gran Via.” The evening when we dined the inside was dimly lit and quiet. Several bar tables lined the window. We chose one with a good view of the bar. Along the entire bar, the glass case was full of a large variety of tapas choices. “One side is the hot tapas and the other side is cold tapas” said one of the waiters. We considered our options over a glass of wine and eventually chose the following:

Calamari

Alcachofa con jamon (artichoke with ham)

Salmon rollito ( stuffed rolled up salmon)

Angulas (baby eels)

The calamari rings were seared and marinated with olive oil. Unfortunately, it was our least favorite of the dishes. They were chewy and bland. I couldn’t eat more than one. Perhaps when it was fresh it may have been better, but at the end of the night, sometimes it is slim pickings. The Alcachofa on the other hand was good. It had great flavor, simply done with lemon and olive oil, and the little pieces of jamon added a nice salty, smoky flavor. Every restaurant has salmon rollitos on the menu, but they are always made a little differently. This one was filled with a seafood salad made up of cabbage, carrots and crab in a creamy sauce. It had a nice refreshing crunch and was not overly creamy. We also had angulas for the first time. I was surprised they were only 2 Euros for one serving, having read that they can cost thousands of Euros per Kilo. The waiter assured me the price was correct. Kevin and I liked them. The texture and flavor reminded me of a scallop.

However I recently learned of a most unsettling fact. The “angulas” that I ate most likely were NOT real angulas. As I presumed, angulas really are a very costly commodity. Therefore if they are offered on the menu for a cheap price, like ours, then they are actually “imitation” angulas similar to our immitaion crab. They are made using flour and fish and look identical to the real product. Looks like I wont be ordering those again. Overall, La Buena tapa is a nice bar with good service and affordable prices. Our waiter, who looked akin to Javier Bardem, was a friendly guy. Kevin returned a few mornings later for breakfast and he greeted Kevin with a smile and a handshake. We must have made a good impression. Kevin also reports that the breakfast of a tortilla and coffee (for 2 Euros) was very good. For 16 Euros we had four generous portions of tapas and four glasses of the house vino tinto. Not our favorite spot but we know we will always be welcomed there for a good bite of tapas.

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Lizarran: (!!!)

Tucked away on a side street near the University, Kevin and I stumbled upon this joint while seeking out a bar recommended by a friend. We decided it looked to good to pass up and ended our search right there. The restaurant offered a full menu, but its specialty was montaditos. Montaditos are pieces of toast topped with an assortment of ingredients. Their name derrrives from the verb “montar” which means, “to ride.” In effect, montadito means “the food that rides.” The glass case along the bar was filled with an array of montaditos, each one held together with toothpicks. We realized, with some assistance from a waiter, that Lizarran is like a montadito buffet, so we grabbed a plate and chose a few. Once we sat at our table the server delivered our wine. Curious about prices, we inquired as to how they figure the bill. The waiter explained that all we have to do is save our tooth-picks, and they add it up at the end. Genius idea if everyone is honest. From the looks of it, they were doing well because the place was pretty packed. As we munched on our cute little toast creations, a server emerged from the kitchen holding a tray full of “hot montaditos.” Apparently, throughout the dining experience, a server is constantly making rounds with a hot tray as well. We chose a couple things from the hot trays, but we had to stop ourselves. Despite being little and cheap, it all adds up. Lizarran was a bar with a fun concept, good service and an inexpensive menu. Each montadito cost around 1.50 Euros so as long as you don’t eat too many, it’s a nice place to stop and have a quick bite. Below is the list of montaditos we selected and devoured. Each culinary creation was unique and scrumptious.

Montadito de chocolate y queso

(chocolate and cheese)

Mondatido de pimiento relleno de marinera

(red pepper filled with Spanish potato salad)

Montadito de queso, membrillo, y nuez

(cheese, guava paste, and nuts)

Montadito de salmon rollito rellena de angulas

(Salmon filled with “baby eels”)

Montadito de salmon rollito rellena de asparagus

(Rolled up salmon with asparagus)

Mondadito de queso, pimiento, y anchoa

(cheese, redpepper, and anchovy)

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Ruta de La Tapa:

For the entire month of November, a select few of the restaurants in Barrio del Carmen (our neighborhood) will be participating in “La Ruta de la Tapa.” Every Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday these bars, cafes, and restaurants will be offering a tapas and a drink for 2 Euros. Serious participants get a map with the various locations, and a place for each establishment to put their stamp. Once your map has been filled with all the stamps, you can submit it to win a trip for two to a local hot springs resort in Archena!! We are going to win, of course. For the past two weeks we have been slowly making our way from place to place. The unfortunate news is we failed to bring the camera to a few of the locations. I guess we will just have to go back and try their food again, for journalistic purposes of course. There are several reasons why I think this event is a marvelous idea. First of all, it is a fun way for us to get acquainted with our neighborhood. Second, it is an easy, economical and delicious way to discover what many of the menu items in Spain look and taste like. Third, we are discovering some favorite local places. Fourth, this is great material! In this section of my food blog I wanted to describe each place on the map, however due to certain circumstances I may not write about all of them, but I will try my best to provide you with the details of as many of the experiences as I can.

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Roses Rosell: (!!!)

“Roses Rosell” is a small local bar, about a five-minute walk from our place. We went one evening around 11 pm and it was packed full of late night snackers. Behind the bar, our server was rapidly building tasty plates of montaditos. When we asked what they were offering tonight he excitedly explained their featured tapas: a Montadito de sobresada (spicy red paste), salsa de tomate( fresh tomatoes with olive oil and salt), queso(cheese), huevo de conordiz (quail egg), topped with salsa picante (spicy orage sauce), pimiento rojo(red pepper), y aciete de oliva(olive oil). We eagerly ordered two, along with a glass of vino tinto. We watched him put them together and they were finished in minutes. As we enjoyed or elaborate treats, a crowd of people were huddled around the end of the bar, watching the cook go to work. Despite the rush of customers and an impossible list of orders the bartener/cook remained jubilant. Smiling and whistling while he worked his magic speedily whipping up montaditos, he did not seem at all anxious by the mass of hungry customers awaiting him. He obviously is used to fast-paced labor. By the time we were finished the place was beginning to die down. We paid the 4 euro tab and got our first stamp. Roses Rosell is a great local bar and we will be back to visit again.

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Los Alamos (!!!)

With only one table inside, and a bar that seats three or four people at most, Los Alamos is the epitome of a “hole in the wall.” Initially, it did not seem like anything special but we soon realized why the locals love it so much. The special they were offering this particular evening was michirones. By the sound of it, I assumed it was fried meat or some little bites of something, but boy was I wrong! The waiter described what it was, pointing to a few vegetables, saying enthusiastically “ es muy rico, you will love it!” Michirones is a stew full of juicy beans, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, zesty sausage and salty fish in a spicy, succulent sauce. I would say it had a bit of a Cajun taste to it. We really liked it. Without this opportunity to try michirones, we probably would have never ordered them from the menu. I am glad we discovered yet another delicious dish! We also tried our first Paella in Spain at “Los Alamos,” which was an unexpected occurrence. As I explained in detail in my blog entry, an animated group of ladies from the Dominican Rebublic were trying it for the first time, and invited us to join them. The paella included seafood of every kind, it was spiced well and was rich with flavor. My only critique is that the rice was a bit too sticky. Although, the waiter argues that his paella is the best we will ever encounter. I will be the judge of that. The tiny bar of Los Alamos may seem ordinary, but inside this intimate setting every customer is treated like family and the chef makes sure you are enjoying your meal. The typical Murcian home-style cooking in this dive is worth tasting.

michirones

mmmmm yummy!

happy eaters

drooool

Roses Confeteria (!!)

Only a couple hundred feet away from our apartment building, “Roses” is situated on a street corner looking out at our local park. Large sheets of glass wrap around the curved building allowing for a splendid view and bright natural light inside. It is clean and modern, with a sleek stainless steel bar, and tiled floor that gives it a diner-like feel. In addition, it is a bar/bakery so it smells of freshly baked breads and pastries. Kevin and I have been to Roses several times before eating there for the “Tapas Walk.” Today they offered an “empandita” and a “cervesita” (a mini-empanada and a mini-beer). The empanada was okay, but would have been better if they served it hot. It was filled with hard-boiled egg, a chunky tomato sauce, and tuna. It is a very traditional snack in Murcia and can be found at any bakery. At “Roses,” the food is not remarkable by any means, but it does have a nice environment to go read the newspaper while you sip a coffee or munch on one of their freshly baked goods.

Restaurante Molina de Abajo (!!!!)

As Kevin and I descended down a country road towards the restaurant, we found ourselves in a picturesque valley surrounded by small farms and a horizon of silhouetted mountains. A bit further down we spotted our destination, a charming little restaurant located on the edge of a small gorge. It was a lovely, breezy fall day. Freshly fallen orange and yellow leaves fell around us as we breathed the cool, crisp air. Upon arriving we requested to sit outside. The waitress expressed concern that we may be too cold, but we assured her it was perfect. In Florida, we've served plenty of Europeans who request the scorching hot patio when no Floridian would ever deny the air-conditioned dining-room.

She promptly returned and set up our table. The menu was small, but had a great local selection. It also had a section with a variety of paellas (seafood, rabbit, or bull), but they required a call-ahead, as paella takes hours of preparation (if you want the real deal). We began by ordering two glasses of the house wine, or so we thought. She brought out the bottle, uncorking it before we could say anything. It was a great accompaniment throughout our meal though, so it was a good mistake. Plus at 4 euros a bottle, we had no problem paying for it. I guess that is one of the advantages of dining in wine country.

We looked over the menu for a few minutes and selected a few appetizers and a main dish to share. It was difficult to choose from such an enticing list, but we ended up ordering roasted and salted almonds, and a plate of local goat cheese with anchovies and roasted red peppers. The almonds were hot and fresh, perfect for the chilly weather. The cheese plate was presented beautifully, each ingredient placed symmetrically around the plate and drizzled with herbed olive oil. I am still learning to appreciate the distinct flavor of goat cheese, but this one in particular was delicious. Seared with dark charred lines, it was hot off the grill, warm and smoky, and did not have the typical overwhelming gamey flavor that I’m accustomed to. It was actually quite mild, perhaps due to being cooked. Combined with the anchovy and roasted pepper, it blended well on the palate. We took our time eating this course, slowly stacking the ingredients on fresh baked slices of bread while we sipped our wine.

Our waitress surprised us with what we thought to be complementary appetizers of locally grown olives and home made potato chips (see corresponding blog entry). They were nice to snack on while we enjoyed the fall breeze and awaited the final dish. Just as we were finishing the last bite of our cheese plate, our waitress came out with our Duck in Grape Sauce entree. It was accompanied with a side of sliced, garlic-baked potatoes, and charred roasted green peppers. It was a perfect warm dish to share on a chilly fall day. The grape sauce, made with grapes from a local vineyard, was comparable to a grape jelly but not as sweet and much fresher! It was great on the dark meat of the duck, which was cooked perfectly. Since I am not wise to duck, according to Kevin, the duck meat was a good cut, and it tasted natural (wild, not farmed raised). Sea-salt and cracked almonds were lightly sprinkled over the top of the meat, which gave it a nice crunch. The culminating flavors of all the ingredients created a sweet teriyaki taste. The potatoes and smoky peppers paired well with the meat. It was a splendid meal.

The waitress gave us our complementary “chupitos” (shots) of licor de hierba” (herbed liqueur), and then we finished with the traditional post-meal café solo (espresso). At Molina de Abajo, not only were we able to enjoy delicious food made with the local harvest, we also had quality time together relishing the outdoors. By the end, we were cheerful, full and ready for more adventures! Kevin and I plan to return to this lovely establishment if the opportunity arrives.

The sign at the top of the hill

The restaurant

The menu

our appetizers

Creative method of advertisement on the olive bowls

The local wine, and the view

The beautiful cheese plate

The duck entree

our herbed "chupitos"

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Bar Pereas (!!!!)

In the quiet pueblo of Moratalla we walked along a street lined with trees, admiring their golden fall leaves. We stopped at a couple of bars (the only ones in town) to have a snack before eating our meal. Sequestered among the mundane strip of painted white cement buildings, Bar Pereas is a diamond in the rough. Upon entering it seemed like another dingy bar where we would eat some greasy snacks. However, I was unsuspecting of the lavish feast that awaited me. After having a beer at the bar, we were invited into the surprisingly clean and elegant dining room.

The thirteen of us were seated at a long table equipped with plates of delicious jamon y almendras as a first course. The jamon was thinly sliced, and the peeled, raw almonds, locally harvested, were crunchy and salty. After the owner/server exchanged a few words with some women on the table he quickly returned with two bottles and one jarra of vino tinto. One bottle was from a well-known winery in Murcia, ribera de dueras, and in the jarra was house wine from a nearby winery. The owner proudly presented the second bottle of wine, proclaiming that he made it himself with the grapes he grows in his heurta (small plot of land) in town. It doesn’t get any more local than that. As I sipped a glass of wine from the jarra, Javier (Maria Dolores’s husband) insisted that I try all of them at once, so he pulled some glasses from the neighboring table, and poured me a bit of each. Therefore, in front of me sat three glasses of wine, and my beer from the bar that I was still working on. Taking advantage of the situation, I held a few glasses up and said “whooo partyyy!!” It made everyone laugh.

As we sipped our wine and shared conversation, only a few minutes had passed when the jovial server/owner brought out the second course, calamari a la plancha (grilled calamari). The calamari was cooked perfectly, not too soft, yet not rubbery either. I guess I will call it “aldente.” They were browned, with a wonderful grilled flavor, and lightly tossed with olive oil and lemon juice. I can confidently say it was the best grilled-calamari I’ve had. The next dish was a pleasant surprise. Fresh fruit and vegetables from the owners huerta (picked that day!!). Before I could even try a single grape, the subsequent dishes came pouring out of the kitchen faster than I could take pictures. Delivered to our table was a plate of roasted green peppers, a spread of meats (morcilla (blood sausage), tocino (thick-cut bacon), chorizo (sausage), and boquerones (fried whole anchovies). Warm, salty, and crispy, these tasty little delicacies are eaten bones and all! Lastly for final portion of the entrée, they brought out the migas, which I would compare to stuffing, but without meat or herbs. The entree and base for the preceding plates, migas, arrived in an enormous cast iron pan. Javier was excited for us to try them because he said they are very traditional in Murcia, “pero,” he said with a smirk, “si comes muchas, vas a engordar,” as he mimed a big belly with his arms (his point being that they are fattening). Maria Dolores told us to go in the kitchen to see how they prepare the migas, and the owner gladly lead us into the tiny space where three women of different ages were hovering over the hot stove. When they noticed there was an audience, they kindly welcomed us in and showed us how its done. After chatting with the cheerful ladies, we discovered they were mother and daughters of three generations who were cooking our food, carrying on their culinary traditions. It was a beautiful sight.

Back at the table I piled a bit of everything on my plate and indulged. There was a copious amount of food and drink on the table. Thanksgiving came early for us this year. Javier proceeded to pile food onto Kevin’s plate, urging him to eat more. We all ate until we were beyond full, but when dessert came we all suddenly had a bit more room. Dessert was a tray of four different tortas (cakes) accompanied with coffee, of course. My favorite was the coffee flavored flan. But wait, we’re not done! The owner brought out several bottles of liquors for us to sample along with a plate full of home made doughnuts. As we sipped our chupitos of various liqors, the men began teaching Kevin and me some of their favorite dirty (sex) jokes or “chiste verde.” Some of the jokes were pretty raunchy, but due to the language barrier we missed the punch lines so they had to repeat them over and over again until we understood. The entire table had tears flowing down their cheeks they were laughing so hard. I assure you, apart from the dirty jokes. We also spent plenty of time having civilized intellectual conversations. I am certain all had a good time.

Once again, our Spanish family took us on a wonderful excursion in which we saw unforgettable sights, and shared another marvelous meal with good company. A refreshing getaway located on the outskirts of Murcia in the mountains with many nearby trails, and ancient caves, I would go back to Bar Pereas in an instant. It is an ideal place to have a home-style Spanish meal, cooked with love and local ingredients, to share with family and friends after a long day of hiking in the scenic countryside. Who wants to go back with me?!

Kevin dancing in the beautiful fall leaves

Our Spanish family. Maria Dolores is closest to the camera, to her right is Javier, and to my right is her daughter Clara. The rest are friends and relatives of the family.

Jamon y almendras

The proud owner and his wine

My collection of beverages!

Cheers!!

Calamari

Fresh, local, fruits and veggies

meat, meat, meat

MIGAS!!!

The proud owner!

mother and daughter in the kitchen

As everyone takes a bit from each dish, Javier urges Kevin to take MORE

Anchovies

Freshly picked grapes, mmmmm!

Dessert

The greasy home-made doughnuts (they tasted like funnel cake!)

SNEAK PEAK PHOTOS FROM EARLIER IN THE DAY:

On the hike before dinner

Kevin and I in front of the cave dwelling replica that we visited!

--------Dining the Andalusian way--------

Today Spain is globally recognized for its innovation in cuisine. Andalusia, in particular, is known widely throughout Spain as a gastronomic capital. The region is most famous for its “Caña y Tapa.” This groundbreaking concept of a “beer and a bite” allows diners to sample numerous small portions instead of a single large entrée. It has become very popular and is now found all over Spain. During our visit, Kevin and I took full advantage of all the “caña y tapa” Andalusia had to offer. We found many bars where, for 1.50 Euros, we had a beer (or wine) and chose a tapa to accompany it, or, more commonly, the establishment will serve a tapa of their choice with your drink. In the case of the latter, each subsequent drink comes with a new tapa, and that is how many people have their lunch. By the third or fourth beer you are usually quite full.

Not only does the “caña y tapa” allow you to try various dishes, it is also a fantastic way to explore the diverse selection of bars and restaurants that are found scattered throughout Almeria and Granada. Walking down the old cobblestone streets I am enticed by many unique places, each offering a different experience. I personally can be very indecisive especially when choosing where to eat. However, with this option, I can try them all!!! We took great pleasure in finding laid-back, cozy, hole-in-the-wall type pubs where we could leisurely sip our wine and beer, and eat tapas while we listened to the hum of the room full of locals, all in animated discussions. Afterwards we would carry on to the next unknown destination. After reading so much about the amazing tapas in Andalusia, I must say that we were not blown away by all of the tapas we tried. However, the authentic atmosphere of each site certainly made up for the food that may not have met our standards. We most definitely did eat a few outstanding dishes, but more than anything it was about the unforgettable experience. We did not cover much ground during our trip so we both look forward to spending more time in the lovely region of Andalusia, visiting more historical cities, and most importantly tasting more TAPAS!

ALMERIA:

Below are pictures of our first Andalusian tapas. At this restaurant, the prices were a bit higher but the food was of great quality. It was a sensational welcome to the world of andalusian cuisine. Each tapas was priced individually and was served with a drink of choice.

Salmorejo is the andalusian version of Gazpacho. Made with bread, it has a thick and creamy texture so just a small amount is sufficient (although I could eat much more!) Also, it goes quite well with wine.

On the left: we have two tiny quail breasts (pechuga de cordoniz) marinated in a sweet glaze and topped with a pesto sauce. This was one of our favorites! On the right: we have (believe it or not) patatas bravas! These tasty little treats were excellent. Traditionally patatas bravas are cubed, baked or fried potatoes mixed with a mild spicy mayo based red sauce. However, as you can clearly see, this is a gourmet version using purple potatoes and separate the sauces.

This is a "canelon crujiente de pato" ( a crunchy filo dough encrusted duck) It was delightfully flavorful.

Below: The food at this tapas bar was more traditional but very good

With my sherry and Kevin's Beer we each chose a tapas from the pictured menu. I chose manchego cheese, and Kevin sauteed mushrooms. You may be wondering, why sherry? Well, Jerez, located in Andalucia is where sherry originated. It was sweet, oaky and delicious.

This place had a lot of character. All of the servers were old men wearing red vests. You may notice the jamon (ham) hanging from the rafters of the pictured bars which is very typical all over spain.

On the right we have a whole fried fish called salmonette de roca (a small rock fish) and on the left we have habas con jamon (beans with ham). The fish was not very good. The beans on the other hand were cooked perfectly and tasted great. The sauce was salty and spicy. We asked for extra bread to soak it all up

GRANADA:

Below: The food at this creative little tapas bar came in plentiful portions. It was a fun, young atmosphere and the food was perfect for hungry travelers.

It is what it looks like. Large home-made bagel sandwiches. One of these bad boys came with each drink. We were with a group of friends from the hostel so they served our tapas on a large plate instead of individually. Sharing from one plate is very typical in spain.

This bar was so crowded with people but it was highly reccommended. We tried visiting at several different times of the day, and the crowd never seemed to die down so we sucked it up and dove in. They served an excellent tortilla (similar to an omelette) but unfortunately I have to footage to prove it. I loved the old-fashioned feel to the place. It was very apparent that it had a lot of history behind it (as did many of the bars we visited).

This bodega was recommended by the cheese vendor at our local market in Murcia. It was a very good suggestion. The inside was decorated with old antiques, ancient wine bottles, and the above mounted bull head was a nice touch. They served us several delicious courses with each drink. We actually went back a second time because it was so good!

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